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Apart from veteran birders, few are
aware that Goa is one of the great birding hotspots in
India. To most people Goa is all beaches, sun and fun, with
glorious food. All of this is undoubtedly true but should
you have a sudden urge to see the Ceylon (Sri Lanka)
Frogmouth Batrachostomus moniliger, catch the first flight
to Dabolim and head straight to Molem, now referred to as
the Bhagwan Mahavir Sanctuary. Once there, go directly to
the charming Backwoods Camp, run by Leio de Souza and two
partners, and within ten minutes you will have stunning
views of this enigmatic bird.
Situated near the eastern border of the state, the sanctuary
covers around 240 km of forest and is about 60 km from the
state capital, Panaji. You can spend three days and not
leave Backwoods Camp. It is one of the few places where you
can see two of the most enigmatic and rarely seen
kingfishers, the Oriental Dwarf Ceyx erithacus and the
Blue-eared Alcedo meninting. In the bushes lurk
Brown-cheeked Fulvettas Alcippe poioicephala and
Puff-throated Babblers Pellorneum rvficeps.
Other endemics that can been seen in the camp include
Malabar Parakeet Psittacula columboides, Malabar Grey
Hornbill Ocyceros griseus, Dark-fronted Babbler Rhopodchla
atriceps and the Small Sunbird Leptocoma minima. Keep a
sharp eye for the brilliant coloured Malabar Trogon
Harpactes fasciatus and legendary songster the Malabar
Whistling Thrush Myophonus horsfieldii, both of who turn up
behind the kitchen just before dawn. Flocks of
Black-throated Munia Lonchura kelaarti are common. It is
also a good place for Vigor's Sunbird (Crimson) Aethopyga
vigorsii.
Close by is the ancient temple of Tambdi Surla. The Kadamba
dynasty, that ruled Goa between the 10th and 14th centuries,
built this well-preserved structure in the Jain style in the
12th century. It is constructed with black basalt stone that
was transported to the area across the mountains from the
Deccan plateau. It is still a bit of a mystery why the
temple was built in a place which is quite inaccessible and
a fair distance from the main settlements. The area
surrounding the temple has beautiful tall trees and the
Flame-throated (Ruby-throated) Bulbul Pycnonotus gularis and
Yellow-browed Bulbul Iole indica are easily seen. With some
luck the Gold-fronted Leafbird Chloropsis aurifrons and the
Asian Fairy Bluebird Irene puella may turn up too.
A trail from the temple takes you through some deep woods
and there lurks the diminutive but spectacular Heart-spotted
Woodpecker Hemicircus canente. Large flocks of Grey-fronted
(Pompadour Green) Pigeon Treron affinis and the Mountain
Imperial Pigeon Ducula badia fly overhead at dusk on their
way to roost. If you scan the skies, chances are that you
will also see the endemic Indian Swiftlet Aerodramus
unicolor. The Dudhsagar Falls are about a 90-minute jeep
drive. Try and get there early and walk back for a few
kilometres. An excellent place for raptors, the Black
Ictinaetus malayensis and Rufous-bellied Hieraaetus kienerii
Eagles can be seen soaring on the thermals. But be warned
that the falls are a favourite for non-birding tourists, who
can be quite noisy.
This lesser known and extremely beautiful forested region of
Goa is truly rewarding for discerning birders, who can see
many rare species without having to unduly extend
themselves. |
